Fall is a wonderful time to visit Manhattan, and one of the awesome things about the city at any time of year is the variety of cuisines available.  In this issue of Agenda, we feature two delightful restaurants in the Big Apple that offer scrumptious food and charming ambience inspired by two different countries—France and Italy.  So join us in reading about Orsay Brasserie & Bar and Bar Italia in New York, New York.

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ORSAY BRASSERIE & BAR – A Touch of Paris on the East Side of Manhattan

On a rainy autumn day we entered Orsay Brasserie to a warm “Bonjour” from one of the owners, Hassan El Garrahy. In true French tradition, the proprietor was at the front door welcoming his friends and guests to his restaurant to ensure their comfort and pleasure.

After being seated, we peered out the window expecting to see the Eiffel Tower. That’s how authentic this richly decorated, dark wood and tile room feels—like you have suddenly arrived in Paris. There is good reason to feel that way, as we learned when Hassan explained the provenance of the design and architectural details of this beautiful eatery.

It appears no expense was spared in creating the proper atmosphere for Orsay. Virtually everything is imported, mostly from France, of course, but the dramatic floor tiles come from Italy. The bar, which is unique among bars in NYC, is about 24 feet long and made from a single piece of wood. Shipping the piece to the US was a challenge in itself. After assembly, the bar top was covered in pewter. Hassan regaled us with information about the care and craftsmanship that went into the making of Orsay, including the custom-designed copies of a French antique light fixture and even the subtle curves of the arches above our heads.

Orsay not only distinguishes itself in the character created by its décor, but in its menu as well. It is eclectic in its choices and includes something for every palate. It’s a brasserie in the true French definition, meaning they serve beer and up to 225 French and American wines, as well as a variety of the highest quality foods. They are well known for their Two Cheese and Truffle Soufflé.

We arrived before noon and, despite the rain, Orsay was already filled with patrons, none of whom seemed like, “I-have-to-rush-through-lunch-to-get-back-to-work.” Instead, there was a certain joie de vivre about the crowd—leisurely dining on their delectable food and drinks, seemingly without a care in the world.  Maybe we were in France, after all!

We started with appetizers from the striking vintage hors d’oeuvres trolley. Approximately 18 different chilled items, including asparagus, sardines, cheeses, artichokes, beets, celery root, hearts of palm, and other mouth-watering specialties, rotate on trays, like a Ferris wheel. We would have been content sampling them all, but this wasn’t possible unless we wanted to skip the tempting dishes on the menu. Instead, we snacked on a few choice items with our drinks, while waiting for our entrees.

Marilyn chose the Poached Salmon; a huge slice of fresh pink fish accompanied by homemade dill sauce and thinly sliced cucumber, artfully shaped like a box, topped with caviar. Dennis ordered the Nicoise Salad. The just-cooked fresh tuna was superbly seasoned on the outside and bright red inside, with the white anchovies adding just the right amount of zing to the dressing. It was a first-rate presentation.

We were accompanied to Orsay by Jackie, who lives and works in NYC. She chose one of the daily specials, Grilled Shrimp Risotto, telling us it was her favorite dish. She really didn’t have to; her empty plate spoke for itself!

When entering Orsay, you can’t help but notice the dessert display, with its colorful array of tantalizing sweets. Dennis spotted a luscious-looking Fig Cake and after our main course, he finally got the chance to order a piece. With typical panache, the restaurant places a white chocolate “button” with the Orsay imprint in the center of each slice.

We relaxed over coffee, enjoying the last moments of a very satisfying meal, with a plate of macaroons and cookies. In no hurry to leave Orsay, we realized that it had become more crowded and slightly noisier. It seems a lot of New Yorkers found Orsay a comforting respite on a rainy afternoon.

Owner Hassan El Garrahy is well schooled in French culinary operation, having served a long tour at one of the top French restaurants in NYC. His expertise reveals itself in the quality of food preparation and presentation, as well as the efficient way the restaurant is run. So how would we describe our overall impression of Orsay?  Quite simply, as the French would say—  C’est magnifique!”

Orsay Brasserie & Bar
1057 Lexington Avenue
New York, NY 10021
(212) 517-6400
www.orsayrestaurant.com

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BAR ITALIA – A Happy, Happening “Taste of Italy” on New York’s Madison Avenue

When walking down Madison Avenue between 65^th and 66^th Streets, you can’t miss Bar Italia, especially on a warm summer night with its French doors wide open. The restaurant is sparkling white from floor to ceiling, with bright red accents. It has a welcoming openness. Passersby are sure to be

drawn in by the many diners enjoying themselves inside.

Bar Italia is compact, similar to the neighborhood bar/restaurants all over Italy. It is a place where friends and strangers can hang out, have great food, and be supremely comfortable in their environment. There is a small bar at the front, with tables both inside and “outside” for patio dining.

On the wall in large, black script is an Italian expression that, even though you may not understand it, attracts your attention. Translated, it means: “A population of

poets, artists, heroes, saints, thinkers, explorers, trans-migrants and great lovers.”

The writing somehow fits the effortless sophistication of this restaurant in the same way the simple black and white photos of Sophia Loren and Claudia Cardinale grace the walls. Whoever designed it recognized that the essence of these classic beauties would help define its existence. It worked for us; we loved it. Who doesn’t love Sophia Loren!

The menu is neo-classical and eclectic, filled with a variety of dishes certain to make you a fan. There is also a daily assortment of off-menu items, so that any night you are in for delectable surprises. It feels like the chef is cooking for himself and it brings him joy to share it with you. Actually, this is true. And what’s more, if you don’

t see what you want, either on the menu or as a special, the chef will happily make it.

Chef and co-owner Denis Francischini is from Trento, Italy. He has an envious 20+ year career at one of the top Italian hotels in the world. After serving as an Executive Chef and opening up other people’s restaurants, he decided to go into business for himself. At Bar Italia, he is partnered with Hassan El Garrahy, who also owns Orsay in New York.

We arrived at Bar Italia a little later than we expected. We’d just come from the Museum of Natural History, and had to be at the theatre for an 8 pm curtain, so dinner was not going to be as leisurely as we would have liked. That’s really tough when the chef is sitting at your table wanting very much to please you, and explaining all the love that goes into his dishes. He was practically bubbling over with gusto. This is why Bar Italia is so good. If you love what you do, the world takes notice.

We started with the Polipetto alla Griglia – Grilled Octopus on Chick Pea Puree. This little dish was so tasty and tender that we knew from the first tentacle, everything to follow would be great.

Our second appetizer was a fresh Salmon Tartare mixed with Avocado and Parsley, on a bed of Arugula. It was a refreshing, smart dish that went well with the wine.

Our salad course consisted of the Insalata di Fagiolini—String Beans, Caciocavallo Cheese, and Cherry Tomatoes in Vinaigrette Dressing. Light and zesty with a dandy dressing.

We split the pasta course, each of us having small tastes of the very rich Tagliolini al Tartufo— Homemade Tagliolini in Butter, Parmigiano, and Truffle Oil Sauce. The tastes were small; the enjoyment was huge!

For the main course, Dennis zeroed in on one of his favorite dishes, Fegato alla Veneziana— Calves Liver and Onions, with Toasted Polenta Triangles. His smile ashe ate his way through this succulent dish said it all. Kudos to Chef Denis for having this rarely-served entree on the menu and cooking it so exquisitely, giving it a rich, subtle taste. Liver has about the highest amount of cholesterol of all beef, so it’s best in moderation, which is recognized by Bar Italia.

Marilyn went with the Piccata di Vitelllo—Veal Piccata cooked with an accompaniment of Orzo. The tasty classic was tender and savory.

When Chef Denis had time to sit with us, he asked if we knew what Baccala is. Dennis had previously tried this dry salted cod dish which is a favorite in northern Italy. When the plate was presented here, the Baccala was perched on crispy, baked polenta and was a lot smoother and creamier than traditional Baccala. Chef Denis had prepared his “Baccalati” with some “secret” ingredients, the result being a heavenly smooth, fish-infused treat.

We were running out of time, so we had to shorten the conversation and start dessert and coffee. If you didn’t know Bar Italia prepares gluten-freeand vegan dishes, then you wouldn’t know about their Vegan Tiramisu. We are not vegans, but this “almost” tiramisu was creamy and flavorful. The real tiramisu was a knock-it-out-of-the-ball-park homerun! We devoured every last morsel and got ready to leave for the theatre.

Right about this time Chef Denis brought out his Panna Cotta for “just a little taste.” OMG! Dennis was eating it off the spoon as we were running out the door. All we can say is, “Try it; you’ll love it.”

From our first bite of Octopus to the last spoon of Panna Cotta, Bar Italia never failed to please. Everything here is accomplished with a certain pennachio, including the fresh white color scheme, the Italian divas on the wall and the superior products of the impeccably capable kitchen. Everything felt just right here. If you want some great Italian food and a warm, friendly atmosphere, Bar Italia is the place for you.