In the world of makeup, there is nothing better—or worse—than the smoky eye. It all depends on your perspective. Done right, the smoky eye can be polished, glamorous, and sophisticated. Done wrong, the smoky eye can be interpreted as cheap or tawdry.

Chanel makeup artist Claire Curameng believes that when it comes to a smoky eye, less is more. “The true trick is blending, blending, blending!” she says. “Smoky eyes (can be) gorgeous if done right.”

But before you get started, Curameng says don’t forget the primer. “It prevents everything from creasing and changing color, and allows the shadows to set evenly.”

Most people think of smoky eyes, and automatically reach for dark neutrals like black, brown, and grey. But Curameng believes that the modern smoky eye is all about color. “You can achieve a really beautiful and classy smoldering effect with dark blues, purples, (and) forest greens.” says Curameng. And for a healthy dose of glamour, Curameng says don’t be shy about using lots of mascara:  “At least two coats.”

Choosing the right product to create a smoky eye is key. Curameng believes in breaking away from traditional products like powder eye shadows, and instead reaching for jumbo pencils and creams. “Chanel has these amazing cream shadows that have sparkles in them.” Her favorite is the black with silver sparkles, called Mirifique. “It’s sublime. You can even use it as eyeliner.”

Curameng has a simple technique for creating the perfect smoldering look. “I call it the gradient effect.” Curameng suggests starting at the lash line and gradually building from there. “Go from dark to light. Use the darkest color at your lash line; then soften it with lighter shades as you make your way up past the crease of your eyelids. Use a soft white or flesh-toned color for the brow bone, and don’t forget to blend!” Curameng likes to even out the look with a dark eye pencil on the waterline, and then smudge it just a bit. “This creates a more dramatic effect.”

Smoky eyes typically take center stage on any makeup look, so Curameng believes that the rest of your makeup should complement your eyes. “Nude lips and a softer blush will make the look more cohesive,” she says. “A nice peach or pink-toned nude is gorgeous with smoky eyes.” But if you’re up for the challenge, Curameng says there’s nothing like a strong lip to really glam up a look. “Red is daring,” she says, “and a magenta-toned red is a show stopper.”

Product Descriptions:
Chanel Illusion d’ Ombre (Mirifique) $38, www.chanel.com
Bare Minerals Prime Time $18, www.nordstrom.com