Marilyn Anderson & Dennis Lanning’s
ROMANCE ON THE ROAD
TASTING TAIWAN – A Tantalizing Tour of Sights, Nights and Tasty Bites!
By Marilyn Anderson
One of the perks of being a freelance writer is that you can be spontaneous. You don’t have to plan far ahead in order to “take time off from work.” Hey, I take off for years at a time! So when I got the opportunity to take a trip to Taiwan, leaving in ten days, I didn’t need to think about it – I just said, “Wow, I’m there!” I threw some travel pants in a bag, went to a clinic to get a typhoid shot with the longest needle I’d ever seen and pouff! I was ready to roll. The trip ended up being a whirlwind week excursion around the island of Taiwan, where I got to see all kinds of magnificent sights and eat my way across the country.
Some of you may remember that Taiwan used to have a different name: Formosa. Even now, the locals refer to it as Ilha Formosa which means “Beautiful Island” in Portuguese. It’s easy to see why.
Taiwan is an exotic country full of modern and vibrant cities, picturesque mountaintop villages and unique oceanside settlements. Visitors can experience different customs, diverse lifestyles, strange languages, and traditional Taiwanese culture and arts that have been passed down for generations. And of course, an array of exotic cuisines that will totally please and completely surprise the palate.
We visited a variety of specialty restaurants, from posh hotel dining rooms to local eateries to roadside stands, and even 7/11s, which dot the roads all around the country. Wherever you are, the tantalizing tastes of Taiwan are graciously provided by warm and hospitable people who take pleasure and pride in hosting their guests.
This issue features Northern Taiwan and the sophisticated and culturally diverse capital city of Taipei. Parts 2 and 3 in future issues will cover the Central, Eastern, and Southern parts of the island.
TAIPEI
We arrived in Taipei late at night after a 15-hour flight, and one of the things we all noticed as we drove into the city was that even at midnight, the place was jumping! Restaurants, bars, and clubs were open; lines of people were standing outside karaoke parlors; and we learned that if we wanted to go shopping no problem! That’s because Taipei has many night markets, famous for terrific bargains on clothes, toys, leather goods, and electronics, as well as food and snacks galore. There are also 24-hour-foot massage parlors, a 24-hour bookstore, Eslite; and even the parks had young men playing sports in the middle of the night! Our sleepy group passed on the late night activities and headed for the hotel, but you can be sure on my next trip, I’ll spend more time partaking of their rocking night life.
During the day, Taipei is a stylish and bustling city with plenty of attractions to keep every tourist happy. There are temples and festivals, museums and shopping, art and culture,
flower and jade markets, and food from every corner of the world.
Following is a sampling of some of the fabulous foods we savored and the special places in Taipei
that served them.
SILKS HOUSE RESTAURANT
Grand Formosa Regency Taipei
The Grand Formosa Regency has eight restaurants, and their newest, Silks House, is where our group was treated to a veritable feast of never-ending courses. I counted 23! Some dishes looked and sounded like things we might normally eat, but others that looked new and peculiar went untasted, especially after we were told what they were!
Here are a few of the delicacies they served:
Crispy Eel Sprinkled with Sesame – Dee-lish!
Marinated Jelly Fish Mixed with Celery – Didn’t try it. Hey, I was stung by one once! Vegetable Soup served in a Pumpkin Shell – Divine!
Marinated Pig’s Ear with XO Sauce – It was pig, but I chickened out!
Steamed Winter Melon with Yunnan Ham – Excellent!
Baked Seafood with Cheese in Dragon Fruit – Delicious and bee-yootiful, too. Fermented Tofu – also known as STINKY TOFU – and there’s good reason! Roasted Farm Goose – Mmmm, mmm…
The waiters wheeled everything in on carts, and with some, such as the Roasted Duck Grand Formosa Style, we were treated to a show. First, the chefs presented the mouth-watering red bird with gorgeous crispy skin. Then, they sliced it up and served it on plates with scallions, sweet red bell peppers, sour ginger slices, and a special sauce, all in a light and puffy Chinese bun.
The 23 entrees were followed by the dessert, which elicited a myriad of “oohs and aahs” from our group. Billed as “Seasonal Fruits with Crushed Ice,” it was much more extravagant than it sounded. Presented in a huge bowl, it had a surreal “halo of mist” floating over an enormous assortment of colorful fresh fruits, including some we’re not used to in the U.S., such as grass jelly, beans, and black tapioca. This fruit cocktail swam in a punch of crushed ice, condensed milk, and brown sugar. Palate-cleansing and refreshingly cool to taste, it was the perfect conclusion to a colossal feast.
For those of you who like to combine gourmet dining with sightseeing, a brand new Silks Palace just opened at the National Palace Museum.
SILKS HOUSE RESTAURANT
Grand Formosa Regent Taipei
No 41, Chung Shan N. Rd., Section2, Taipei 104, Taiwan
TELÅF886 2 2523 8000
http://www.grandformosa.com.tw
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FIVE DIME DRIFTWOOD RESTAURANT
One of the joys of Chinese dining is getting your share of the food as the Lazy Susan spins around the table. At Five Dime, the courses just kept coming in the ultimate experience of “family dining.” Everyone got some of everything as the exquisite dishes were brought hot and steaming from the kitchen.
Some of our dishes included Spicy Chili Chicken; Prawns with Ginkgo and Lily; Floatingheart Stems with Fragrant Manjack Fruits, and Down-Home Sweet Potato Rice. However, when the strange-looking, purplish Sea Cucumber came twirling by, I admit to a surge of culinary cowardice. I smiled and said, “I’m simply too full,” and pushed the revolving tray on to the next guest!
Food aside, another great reason to go to the Five Dime Restaurant is to see the extraordinary architecture and learn about the owner, Hsieh Li-shiang. At eight years old, Hsieh built a tree house, which became her inspiration for the five restaurants she built in Taiwan. Without any formal training, she started designing buildings based on her love of nature. Driftwood and trees are an integral part of her work, along with colored bricks, oyster shells and rocks.
Hsieh designs every aspect of the restaurants herself, from the airy interior and nature-inspired exteriors down to the tables, chairs, and beautifully crafted plates and cups. Her first restaurant, Five Cent Driftwood House, was built for NT $200,000; and the newest, Five Dime in Taipei’s Neihu District, cost NT $6 million. Her restaurants are well-known landmarks of unique architectural style and fine cuisine, created and operated by an incredible woman with only a junior high school education.
I took some time to walk around each of the three floors of this fabulous restaurant, marveling at the unusual trees, pond, sculptures, and objets d’art. When you’re in Taipei, you’ll definitely want to visit Five Dime for both the delicious food and the unique and dramatic atmosphere.
FIVE DIME DRIFTWOOD
(02) 8501-1472
No.8, Lane.32, Sec.1, Neihu Rd., Neihu District, Taipei, Taiwan
http://www.five-dime.com.tw/html/homepage.htm
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Dinner with the Governor of Taipei County
VR GARDEN CAFE
Danshui, Taipei County
Less than an hour by MRT (Taipei’s rapid transit metro), Danshui is a historic riverbank city rich in diverse cultures and the clash of contrasting styles. New streets and old run parallel to each other along the riverbanks; historical monuments and religious temples abut modern shops; and contemporary coffee houses stand next to old Chinese style tea houses, along with stores selling an eclectic assortment of items like fish balls, confections, fish crisp crumbs, and antiques. It’s a soothing diversion from the intensity of Taipei.
The highlight of our detour to Danshui was being joined for dinner by the Governor of Taipei County, Hsi-Wei Chou, (Roy Chou). A charming and gracious host, Mr. Chou actually 
attended USC in his twenties. He and his wife greeted us by the wharf, and as we walked along the old street and up a steep path past some of their historical monuments, the local people were thrilled to shake his hand and snap cell phone photos. We continued up the windy walkway to Fort San Domingo, taking in other sights, such as the 1800s Canadian Pastor George Leslie MacKay’s wall, the British Consular Residence, Fu You Temple, and Oxford College.
After our walk we went for dinner at the charming outdoor VR Garden Café. Danshui is particularly proud of its local artisans and actively promotes them. At our dinner, three artists were featured showing their paintings and even offering us custom-made works of art on the spot.One of the artists, David Wu, had animal images with people’s names embedded in them. Since I’m the author of “Never Kiss a Frog,” I asked him to make me a frog with my name in it. Within a matter of minutes, I had my own personal David Wu Froggy, with “Marilyn” etched in its belly, to take home as a souvenir. Interestingly, Governor Chou is an accomplished artist as well, and I brought home a coffee-table book filled with stunning pages of his oil on canvas and acrylic on canvas paintings.
Our five-course meal at the Garden Café was served American style, with appetizer, soup, salad, entrée, and dessert. I was so busy getting my frog art that I didn’t write down what I ate. I just gobbled it up, savoring every morsel. Afterwards the artists treated us to a
traditional tea ceremony, served with a teapot and plates made by one of them. Our delicious meal and special company was capped by a dramatic sunset and spectacular nighttime view of the harbor. In fact, one of Taiwan’s Eight Wonders is the “Danshui Sunset,” famous because at sunset, a leaf of golden rays shows up on the surface of the river.
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PEARL LIANG CHINESE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
Grand Hyatt Taipei
I love romance, and the Grand Hyatt Taipei’s beautiful restaurant Pearl Liang has a truly romantic history.
The owner, Pearl Liang, was born into a wealthy family in old Shanghai upscale society. She grew up in Taipei and later lived overseas in England, Switzerland, and the United States. While traveling to Russia on the Trans-Siberian Railway, Pearl met her true love, an influential business tycoon. After marrying, they continued traveling the globe, attending lavish parties and collecting memories along with exquisite pieces of porcelain, art, books, and tableware. Hers was a true storybook romance, ending sadly and suddenly when her husband perished in an avalanche on a heli-ski vacation.
This is when Pearl returned to Taiwan to create Pearl Liang, an extraordinary restaurant, filled with her collectibles, in the Grand Hyatt Taipei. Nostalgic music from Pearl’s favorites—Edith Piaf, Marlene Dietrich, Josephine Baker, Billy Holiday, and Louis Armstrong—adds
to the ambience. The restaurant combines her passion for entertaining with fine wines, designer fashion, and exquisite home-style Chinese cooking. Many of the secret recipes came from Pearl’s mother, all impeccably prepared in the old fashioned way: by hand on the table and in full view of the guests.
Although I didn’t get to meet Pearl on this trip, I hope to next time. Maybe we’ll be able to share some girl talk about Romance on the Road!
PEARL LIANG CHINESE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT
Grand Hyatt Taipei
2, Song Shou Road,
Taipei, Taiwan 11051
Tel: +886 2 2720 1234
http://www.taipei.grand.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/index.jsp
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THE GRAND RESIDENCE
Grand Hyatt Taipei
Speaking of romance, if you’re looking for a special location for your Destination Wedding or a marvelous rehearsal dinner, this could be the place!
The Grand Hyatt has an entire new wing for parties and events called The Grand Residence. Designed by international designer Tony Chi, this new architectural icon provides a beautiful and stylish atmosphere for large festive occasions or small business meetings.
Conceptually, The Grand Residence blends traditional catering and meeting space with an interactive open kitchen into a warmer, more hospitable environment. It’s almost like visiting someone in their elegant home. A section called “the glasshouse” allows hosts or their party planners to select their favorite tableware, décor, and gifts, which are on display. The dining rooms are Residence One, Two, and Three, as well as the most discreet one, called simply, The Residence. Its adjoining terrace features a spectacular view of Taipei 101, the world’s tallest building, which is next door to the Grand Hyatt.
Adjacent to the central kitchen is the tasting room, where hosts can have a grand time planning what they are going to serve their guests. Lucky them, they get to sample loads of absolutely scrumptious dishes!
I can attest to that, since our last night in Taiwan we had dinner at The Grand Residence. It was fun being able to walk over to the numerous cooking stations in the ultra-spacious kitchen as the chefs each put their individual specialties on our plates from cold appetizers, sushi, and salads, to delectable hot entrees to assorted dim sum and then some! I love to taste different dishes, and this was food heaven to me.
Check out some of the yummy entrees:
Grilled Lamb Loin on Warm Smoked Eggplant Salad
Pan Fried Salmon with Lemon Butter Sauce –
Seared Beef Medallion and Duck Liver with Truffle Sauce
Wok Fried Prawns “Szechwan” Style
Stewed Pork Ribs with Rock Sugar and Chinese Tea
Sautéed Asparagus
Steamed Rice in Lotus Leaf
After tasting these and more, we went into the bar, which was specially set up for our desserts, including Chilled Mango Pudding with Sago and Coconut Jelly, Raspberry Tiramisu Slice, and Soft Chocolate Tart with Five Spice Cream. Did I say food heaven? Make that Nirvana!
The Grand Residence is an impressive and elegant new addition to the Grand Hyatt and an exceptional alternative to traditional hotel party rooms. Now, all I need is to plan my wedding there. I’m ready!
THE GRAND RESIDENCE
Grand Hyatt Taipei
2, Song Shou Road,
Taipei, Taiwan 11051
Tel: +886 2 2720 1234
grandhyatttaipei@hyattintl.com
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TAIWAN TIDBITS
Taipei 101: Built to resemble a stalk of bamboo, this is the tallest building in the world, with the world’s fastest elevators. You reach the 89th floor observation deck in just 30 seconds!
The Grand Hotel: Built by Madame Chiang Kai-shek in the style of Beijing’s Forbidden City Palace, it stands majestically on a hilltop, offering spectacular views of Taipei.
National Palace Museum: This fascinating museum is the world’s fifth largest. It contains more than 700,000 artifacts representing Chinese art and culture from the Neolithic period to the end of the Qing dynasty.
Lungshan Temple: The Dragon Mountain meeting place of the gods known for the wealth of deities worshipped here.
Confucius Temple. This grand temple of the Jiangnan style was built in the first year of the Guanghsu period to worship Confucius. The annual ceremony of Confuscius’ birthday will be held on September 28th.
Night Markets: Don’t miss the excitement and energy of the throngs of people winding through the stalls with exotic foods, clothing and other bargains. The Shilin Night Market is the foremost among all the night markets in Taipei. I got a handbag for about $25 that I saw in the U.S. for $225!
Foot Massage Parlors: Taipei holds the world’s record for the most foot massages given in one day.
Tea Shops – A glorious history of tea growing exists in Taiwan, with tea shops all over, each with a counter for tasting, drinking, and talking with friends and servers.
Cosmetic Surgery: If you have some extra time for a little tightening here and there, medical costs are a lot less expensive in Taiwan. Surgical costs are generally half the price.
Wedding & Honeymoon Destination: Taiwan’s booming wedding industry is famous. Over 1300 wedding studios and packages include wedding outfits and costumes for the bride and groom and imaginative studio or outdoor photo shoots.
Taiwan High-Speed Rail: Asia’s newest bullet train.
Festivals – Throughout the year, there are Dragon Boat Festivals; Lantern Festivals; Flower Shows; Hot Spring & Fine Cuisine Carnivals; Music, Art & Cultural Festivals; and Kite Festivals.
Hotel Breakfasts: If you’re staying at one of the larger hotels that have a buffet breakfast, be prepared for a morning spread that includes not only the usual American fare, but also unusual breakfast delicacies from China, Japan, Korea, and other countries.
Money Conversion: $1.00 US Dollar = NT $30.321 Taiwan Dollars
NT $100 Taiwan Dollars = $3.29804 US Dollars.
Want to visit Taiwan? Easy. There are 99 flights a day from the U.S.
Going to Asia? Stopover in Taiwan! Only $79 – “I Land” Paradise, Taiwan Special — US $79 per room/night including breakfast through December 31, 2008.
Stopover at Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport? If you have at least a 7-hour layover, you can get a free half-day tour to Sansia / Yingge or Taipei City
And the winner is! The one-millionth, two-millionth, three-millionth, and four-millionth foreign visitors to Taiwan during their special promotional period in 2008-2009 will win a credit card good for purchases in Taiwan for NT $100,000, NT $ 200,000, NT$ 300,000 and NT $400,000! (In U.S. currency, that’s about $3300 up to $13,120!)
TAIWAN
Touch Your Heart
Tourist Bureau
www.go2taiwan.net
Author, radio star and humorist David Sedaris packed Royce Hall on Saturday, June 28th in the final event of UCLA Live’s 2007-2008 season. It was a hilarious evening, featuring David reading new work and a selection of essays from his best-selling books, excerpts from The New Yorker and even his diary! The sold-out audience cheered as Mr. Sedaris took the stage, and the enthusiasm continued all night with constant laughs.
