Kaylene Peoples – Page 2 – Agenda Magazine Archives

Vlademar Iódice Fall 2008 – “Graffiti – Street Art”

Vlademar Iódice Fall 2008 – “Graffiti – Street Art”

Brazilian designer Vlademar Iódice’s love for design came from watching his mother hand sew their family’s clothes. Following in his family’s footsteps, he learned the technical aspects of creating and producing clothes. He launched his label in 1987 and created a trademark with his last name. Vlademar is personally involved in every step while creating his designs. He explains that his creativity and inspiration is nurtured by whatever surrounds him. The Iódice woman is described as strong, loving of self─and aware she is loved─extremely feminine and confident, and well-traveled. However, she doesn’t forget her roots. Vlademar has a unique way of interpreting femininity through his designs, and his inspiration comes from his Brazilian way of life. Celebrities like Linsday Lohan, Mischa Barton, and Victoria Beckham have been spotted wearing his designs.

Iódice’s fall 2008 collection, titled “Graffiti – Street Art” is glamorous and sexy. The clothes are perfect for the sophisticated lady with a hot body and are tailor-made for clubbing. What better place to show off this style than on the New York runway!

His sizzling collection includes an array of black leather and black patent leather jackets, and trench coats topping micro-mini skirts. His signature molded sleeves and draping off-the-shoulder style define who can actually pull off the Iódice style—somewhat reminiscent of the iconic 80s pop stars.

Other notable pieces were minidresses swirled with black short pleated dresses with wide black belts at the waist, and necklines embellished with zippers and wide lapels, all styled with black leather gloves and platform heels. Though the running color scheme was black, mustard and pink shone through as accents throughout the collection. The mustard fleecevest was a unique accessory to an all black jumpsuit, and sleeveless and off-shoulder shimmering dresses in silver and pink helped to reinforce that 80s feel. As a fan of rich colors, I appreciated the navy, caped, zipped up dress. Black dresses with accents of color were another favorite.

To learn more about Iódice, visit www.iodice.com.br.

By Kaylene Peoples

Jayson Brundson Fall 2008 – Creating Clothes for the Playful Side of a Woman

Jayson Brunsdon Fall 2008 – Creating Clothes for the Playful Side of a Woman

Jayson Brunsdon has been involved in the fashion industry for 20 years. He was first an illustrator and stylist and the creative director for an Australian fashion brand, Morrisey. Jayson’s client list includes HRH Crown Princess Mary of Denmark, Linda Evangelista, and Naomi Watts. His designs have been featured inUK Vogue, Marie Claire Australia, and Harper’s Bazaar Australia.

The collection is filled with a variety of all black looks with the occasional splashes of crimson red, teal, and florals, accessorized with leather finger gloves and styled with leather calf boots, and the occasional pom-poms.. Unexpectedly, red silk capes topped with the prevalent black round-top (derby) hat, turtle necks under fitted, playful bodices, courtesan gowns, poodle dresses all styled with a hint of French renaissance flair. A black feather cape is the surprise ending to Jayson’s show.

Tell us about your collection.

The collection is about love. So it’s about fun and coquettish girls, mischievous and flirtatious girls. I think it’s fine that women experience the empowerment of being feminine through something that’s kind of flirtatious and charming and mischievous. This is a very “after dark” kind of girl, too.

What do you mean by that?

The collection is all about being after dark. She’s been out too long. She’s had a good night out. There are a lot of very playful pieces, a lot of tool and a lot of pom-poms. I went to Paris in September and was really inspired by a girl in the street I saw. She had a bow and a hat on, a very cute dress, and black boots and tights. I just started thinking about Parisianstyle. As an outsider looking at Paris, you sort of think about poodles and pom-poms and stuff like that. So I started thinking about pom-poms a lot. I noticed in this season there have been a lot of similarities in colors in the collections, like deep purples and banana yellow, really intense browns. There are some teal greens and teal blues. I did some purples and greens, but they haven’t hit the runway. But there’s quite a bit of black, and black and ivory as well mixed in with it.

What inspires you?

I get inspired by society and art, film, women, biographies. I always get inspired when I travel. The ideas from one collection to the next often happen the minute one collection finishes. One collection starts immediately following that. The collection is about having fun. It’s about being a naughty girl. Jayson Brunsdon’s label is available in 18 countries and more than 20 US states. For more information, visit www.jaysonBrunsdon.com.

By Kaylene Peoples

Vintage Glo – One-of-a-Kind Jewelry from Treasures Around the World

Vintage Glo – One-of-a-Kind Jewelry from Treasures Around the World

My best friend lived in a 3000 square foot Victorian House with a wraparound porch and fine antique furnishings inside. I loved that house as a child and cherished the memory. From then on, I have carried the love for old, worn, and unique things, anywhere from furnishings to trinkets.

—Gloria Bass—

Gloria Bass is the wife of a fireman and a stay-at-home mom who home schools her teenage daughter. She has a hefty schedule volunteering in her community and designs beautiful vintage jewelry in her spare time. She has only been designing and selling her jewelry a short while and has already sold quite a few pieces in select boutiques. She has been featured in Ocean Magazine and Riviera Magazine. Celebrities Gloria Loring, Anastasia Brown, Leeza Gibbons, and Cathy Rigby also own pieces from the Vintage Glo collection.

Bass combs antique swap meets, boutiques, estate sales, and warehouses; and each hand-selected antique is given new life as Gloria works her magic to design her one-of-a-kind jewelry from her ‘found’ treasures spanning the globe. She’s even been known to purchase an entire chandelier in search of that one perfect piece. You will find anything from key chains and antique ornaments to typewriter keys as main components to her vintage-inspired wearable art. In a recent interview with the creator of Vintage Glo, I asked Gloria to shed some light on her designs and how she got started.

Hi Gloria, I’d love to hear a little about you and how you started Vintage Glo.

I am married to a fireman for 18 years and [I have] a fifteen-year-old daughter. I have been a stay-at-home mom the whole time, dabbling in different crafts and never dreamed I would be messing with jewelry. I volunteer in the community and home school my daughter.

How did you get started doing jewelry?

I started making prayer books, like scrap books, and I embellished them with jewelry—old buttons, old clip on earrings. I got away from that. I knew I had to do something with the old because my house is filled with antiques. It looks like a museum. I started looking for jewelry and started making it. I started making bracelets. My sister was living with me at the time, and she is a web designer. And as I started making this jewelry, I was producing all these pieces and gave them to her. My sister insisted that we create a website and sell it. She came up with the name Vintage Glo. My nickname was Glo in high school. After the website was done, she gave me all the pieces back and said, “Go sell them.” I went out to Irvine Swap Meet and laid my jewelry out and that’s where I got my first offer to be in a store in Costa Mesa. I approached more boutiques in the area.

So it’s been pretty easy for you, then?

It’s been really easy.

In more detail, tell me about your jewelry and what’s involved in the construction.

I have made some pretty bizarre stuff, but people love it because it’s out of the box. I made a bracelet out of a door hinge. . .painted, rusted door hinge. And in the holes of that door hinge I had set some old loose rhinestones in the holes. As far as chandelier pieces, I used that to embellish as well. Typewriter keys. . .I typed someone’s name with it. I even used a chain from a plant hanger.

Were there any obstacles you encountered when starting your business?

I think basically getting the confidence from being out of the box so much. People are so used to the norm. Going out of the norm was pretty scary because I didn’t know if people were as strange (or out of the box) as I was. I love to be different. That’s why my house is full of one-of-a-kind knickknacks. . .furniture. . .I wasn’t sure how people would respond to that.

When did you actually start selling?

May 2005

Would you say most of your success is through word-of-mouth and your website?

Yes, mostly through word-of-mouth and seeing it on other people.

What are your price points?

They range for the necklaces from $60-$120 retail.

Highest High

When I spoke to Anastasia, Gloria Loring, and Leeza Gibbons, and they loved the pieces.

Lowest Low

Sometimes when I am out there and I see people trying to create what I have already created, it bums me out. But I realize that we have our own spin and nobody can get into my head and do what I do. And that’s been discouraging at some point. [My lowest low] is when I see people trying to copy.

Where do you see yourself in 5 years?

I can’t imagine not creating my jewelry. I hope that I am more successful and more well-known than I am now. But I am proud of what I’m doing.

Any advice you’d like to give to someone trying to start their own jewelryline?

Stick with what you love. People are always going to try to get you to [do what they think is cool]. Do what is in your creative heart.

Are you interested in mass producing?

I’ve been in eight boutiques. I just decided to pull out of them. It wasn’t productive. And I had to reproduce things. . .collecting checks. . .etc. So, no. I only kept one boutique, “Pink Laundry.”

I don’t look at magazines because I don’t want to get off focus of what’s in my own creativity. Yet at the boutiques, they see my jewlery and comment on how my designs are what’s totally in right now. I will get up at 1:00 a.m. and I will run down to my studio if I have something in my head.

To learn more about Vintage Glo, visit www.vintageglo.com.

By Kaylene Peoples

Esther Nash – Socialite, Fashion and Jewelry Designer – Continues to Climb New Heights

Esther Nash – Socialite, Fashion and Jewelry Designer − Continues to Climb New Heights

Socialite, fashion designer Esther Nash is what most people would call a self-made woman. She’s a graduate of FIT, and has attended and received several scholarships to the top schools of design in New York, including Cooper Union, Art and Design High School, National Academy of Design, and she even took art classes for ten years at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. My head was spinning when she listed her credentials. I found it even more intriguing when she told me that she used to model, but they thought she was too short (except for print), was a gymnast, but they told her she was too tall, and was also a ballerina with the Joffrey Ballet for 5 years. She has appeared in several television shows, movies, and commercials including Law & Orderand Lift. Her designs have been featured on Sex in the City.

I had seen Esther around fashion events in both L.A. and New York for over 4 years.We’d exchanged friendly hellos and had even engaged in a conversation or two at an after party. But I never really had the chance to sit down with the emerging designer until we kept bumping into each other at New York Fashion Week last February. She had interesting styling advice, was very candid about the collections that showed, and ever so often she would find herself being photographed and interviewed by local TV and paparazzi. To the outside public, it had appeared that Esther Nash had finally arrived.

On Nash’s website esternash.com, I saw a collection of club wear and vintage clothing modeled mostly by Esther, who considers herself an atelier. Her creations are one-of-a-kind. You’ll find magazine articles featuring the young designer, and a running theme in those articles is her sheer determination to succeed in a cut throat, competitive business. Esther has had press coverage in Teen People, New York,Cosmo Girl, Teen Style Monthly, and Gotham, just to name a few. She encourages girls to stay chaste the way she did for so long, and not to be afraid to go for their dreams. You tell me, what’s not to like about Esther Nash! But, in a sea of blogs on the Internet and skeptical naysayers, sometimes the feedback isn’t always so favorable. In spite of the fickle press, Esther continues to forge ahead.

How did you start your line?

I graduated from FIT, I studied tailoring and sportswear. I was given scholarships for Art and Design High School on the East Side in New York for very gifted students in the arts. I studied fashion design there, took 10 years of art classes at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I received scholarships every year for ten years, including 2-year scholarships for the Arts Students League, the National Academy of Design, and Cooper Union. I also studied painting, illustration, sculpting, and photography. I was accepted to all the top notch schools. It’s been a long road.

I figure-skated for seven years, ballet danced for 5 at the Joffrey Ballet, and took gymnastics at the Nova Gymnastic School for 10 years. I was too tall for gymnastics, too short for modeling. My clothes made it onSex in the City. My designs are being shown at Patricia Fields in Soho, and they were selected for the show. Anna Wintour came to my last fashion show, and my [Baby Doll] line is selling [in a boutique called Booty] in Japan.

Tell me about your clothes.

My motto is, “Be seen and be remembered. Sparkle and shine like the superstar that you are.” The clothing is very young, fun, trendy, feminine, and glamorous—pretty much everything combined. It’s pretty much making an impression for a lifetime the first time, because you only have that one time to make a good impression. You have only that one chance, and if you blow it, that’s pretty much how they will remember you. So you have to accessorize well, and I always try to incorporate my designs with other designers. It could be vintage, high end, low end. You have to work with your budget, and not everyone has the same budget.

So that means you’re an atelier. You don’t mass produce, but you design for individuals.

I do one-of-a-kind originals for now. I sew. I drape. I do everything. I have a jewelry line. It’s Finnish glass, Austrian crystals, precious stones, sterling silver, and stainless steel. It’s bulky jewelry. Because if your jewelry doesn’t work with the outfit, you always need a little something besides just the clothing.

I just signed with Ikon models (www.ikonmodels.com) in their celebrity division, and they’re revamping my whole image. We just had some new photos taken. It’s more grown up. I’m on a new television show coming up. Kelis is the host. It’s called “Style Warriors” on VH1. The show is about 5 designers that are competing to win as the best designer.

Now, are you the designer on the show competing?

I’m competing. I actually won the competition. It’s supposed to air, and if it does well, it will go to a full TV series.

Congratulations. Before, I said I saw your stuff about 3-4 seasons ago. Would you describe it as club wear?

Club wear, swimwear, knitwear, eveningwear, jewelry, rock star glam. The men’s wear is Sugar Daddy. You have to just be out there. You can’t give up, because when you do, that’s where they eat you alive.

Speaking of eating alive, tell me about some of these blog sites you’re on.

There are a few haters out there. I am not loved by everyone. You have to pick and choose, but all publicity is good publicity, I hope. I was just in theNew York Times on Sunday, and I had some haters. It’s unfortunate, but it’s okay. I’m on some blog websites. The nice ones are The Quest for “it, Alison Blackman, Advice Sisters, Girlfriends, and Cognac Corner. I have all these people that are jealous, angry, frustrated, bored….

Let’s talk about your process for designing. If a client comes to you and requests a certain type of outfit, how do you go about creating it?

[I ask them] where are they going? What is the design for? What kind of weather, occasion, weight? A lot of designers forget that real people gain and lose weight. Everyone’s not perfect looking, a stick figure. It’s upsetting because people think that you stay forever 21, and it’s not true. You have to move with the times. Otherwise you’ll be left behind if you don’t know how to change. I design for my mother. I make jewelry for her. When you’re designing for different ages, you have long skirts, short skirts, etc. You have to ask what people feel comfortable wearing. Otherwise they won’t be good advertisement for you.

What’s your highest high as a designer─the most amazing moment in your life?

Anna Wintour [Editor in Chief of AmericanVogue] attended my fashion show. A filmmaker made a film about it called “Runway Job,” which was in a few festivals.

Lowest Low

When I met a few young men that proposed and they wanted me to give up my career. So I had to break off three engagements. It’s okay. Single is fine until you meet the right person and they don’t ask you to choose.

I did read some information on you, and I do know that you have this philosophy about virginity.

I do think it’s important to wait. I waited a very long time.

Did you stop waiting?

Yes, I gave up my virginity to my ex-fiance. I just couldn’t wait anymore.

How do you feel that philosophy worked with what you were trying to do?

I think it was great because I wasn’t ready. I waited a long time, but I was not physically or mentally ready to “de-virginize” myself. Each person is different, and I think it’s important that you know who you are before you give up yourself to your mate. It was a 14-month relationship.

Were there any obstacles in your pursuit of designing?

Of course. I did it the old-fashioned way. No connections, scholarships, working very hard. A lot of people have investors, backers, family members…everything is set. But I have talent and I think in the end it will happen for me.

What advice would you give to a young designer trying to come up in this industry?

Esther Nash They should not give up. They should follow their dreams, take another job if they have to. Continue with school and their education. Then they will at least at a later time [pursue their dream] and they’re not out of the loop. So as a hobby they work on their dream and they have their profession and career on the side. That way they’re not angry people who had to give up their dreams because they had to pay their bills. At some point you feel you have to marry, have children, and that you have to give up something. I don’t feel that’s true. I don’t believe that you have to ever give up your dreams for anyone else. And that’s why I continued working. And I am not about to give up now!

To learn more about Esther Nash, visit her websitewww.esthernash.com.

By Kaylene Peoples

Candice Held – Turning Scarves into Feminine Creations

Candice Held – Turning Scarves into Feminine Creations

Candice Held is an LA-based designer who creates one-of-a-kind pieces from recycled scarves. She puts pieces together from hand-woven, hand-laundered scarves. She defines the Candice woman as fun, feminine, vibrant, and liking to have a good time. Her spring/summer collection is about the first bloom of spring when the flowers come out; and the heat of summer, which inspired her “hot air balloon” print.

This is the first time I’ve actually seen your collection on the runway. I’ve seen pictures, but there’s nothing like seeing it in person. This is really very ingenious what you’re doing. Looks like scarves and bandanas?

Thank you, and yes. What happened was I originally started the line exclusively with vintage scarves, and I just got so inspired from working with all the different prints and the silhouette that I put together with the scarves I really liked, and it really worked for a lot of different bodies. But I found it was really difficult to keep finding scarves in good condition because everything is vintage. It’s been through the rag houses. There are a lot of holes in the seams and things like that. So I thought why not start doing my own prints, something really crisp and vivid and colorful that I can do on brand new silk that really pops. And it’s been so fun for me. I’ve done a few now, andthis year is the first time I actually did two different prints for the collection in two different color waves, so four total options; and I’m really trying to flesh that out and build that into being the basis. But it’s all inspired by…and it’s made to look like it’s still a scarf.

I like how you did that. Your designs are also figure-flattering for women who aren’t a size 2 or 4. How did you achieve that?

You know, I have to say it just kind of happened organically. I was a professional dancer, so I just loved the female body; but there are also women in my family that are not a size 2 or 4, so I do also think about that. But for some reason, just sculpting the pieces on the dress form when it got transferred onto real bodies, I found that it just happened to fit the curves where it should and cover up other areas by draping off of the hips so that it [masks the flaws], but then it shows a nice little slice of your lower back. Most people have a beautiful lower back, a beautiful collarbone, and beautiful shoulders. So it just seems to work out. And then we have another style that’s a tunic wrap that many women can wear in many different ways, and it’s just the most versatile simple thing. I think I really lucked out on this little idea that I had.

I wasn’t sure of the fabric, but it looked like it was cotton.

I also have cotton sundresses in the line, which are great. Actually, the one that’s longer and that has a print on it was inspired after dishtowels. So just like I work with scarves, the first one of those dresses was made when I was going on a trip to Mexico, and I just wanted something that would absorb and be breathable in the heat and be really cool and comfortable. And I made the first one out of dishtowels. We produced the line using that actual dishtowel line, and we found that production-wise it wasn’t so easy because there were already seams on the edge so we found dishtowel fabric. And I thought here’s another opportunity for me to do my own prints and dyeing, and play with the colors, and all that kind of thing. So it really evolved, but it was built off of dishtowels. Great for LA in the summer, huh?

How long have you been designing?

I’ve kind of always been a clothes maker, and I used to design for my choreography when I was in college when I was a dancer. But this time, about three and a half years .

Do you have any formal training as a designer, or is this something that you just innately have?

I took one costume class in college, but my grandmother and my great-grandmother are from Paris. My grandmother learned to hand-sew at the house of Dior, and my family [attended] fashion shows in Paris. So they both sewed my whole life and made outfits for me and my sister. They taught me a lot of the basics. And [through] trial and error, and taking night classes after I finished college, as well as learning pattern-making, draping, illustration, and business (just kind of a crash course), [those] evening classes filled in a lot of the gaps and gave me some technical training. So I didn’t go to FIDM or anything, but I have been studying.

You obviously lived with it as a family, too.

Exactly, and I always have made my own stuff, like I’ve always been the pretty-in-pink go-to-the-thrift store and take stuff apart. . .make it fit my body. I know some tailoring from doing that, just working on my own body.

Candice Held has been featured in several magazines, including Apparel News , Weddings & Honeymoons , and Hollywood Hills Magazine. Candice Held designs have been featured on the Tyra Banks show, and Paris Hilton is a fan of her designs. To learn more about Candice Held, visit her website www.candiceheld.com.

By Kaylene Peoples

Sympathy for the Kettle – Not your Typical Tea Retailer

Sympathy for the Kettle – Not your Typical Tea Retailer

Sympathy for the Kettle is not your typical tea retailer. It was started back in December 2003 in the East Village in New York City. Jodi Holiday purchased the initially dark and bankrupt Korean tea room and its business, learned the art of tea, and created a whole new tea experience. She experienced tea while living in Germany and traveling through Denmark, France, and Holland. That’s when she made the switch from European coffee to tea layered in herbs and dried fruit. Sympathy for the Kettle use teas and herbs from China, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, Japan, India, Rwanda, Sudan, Egypt, South Africa, Indonesia, France, Italy, Poland, Hungary, Turkey, and Argentina, as well as peppermint from Oregon and ginseng from Wisconsin. And for the self-professed non-tea lover, they offer a large variety of dessert and fruit teas. Those who thought they didn’t like tea quickly change their minds. Sympathy for the Kettle’s motto is to save the world with tea, healing society’s ills naturally with teas and herbs.

We believe in tea. As an elixir, a life force, for the social quirks it ignites, but especially for the families, friends, and communities it unifies.

-Jodi Holiday

Hello Jodi. Why don’t you tell me a little about your tea house.

My tea house is very unique. I have over 200 different blends, herbs, specializing in Chinese, African, and Indian teas.

How did you get started in this?

When I moved to New York six or seven years ago, I worked at various office jobs. I decided I couldn’t do that anymore, so I put my work to the side and started working on a business plan, and opened up a tea room in 2003. I was introduced to teas living in Europe in the mid 90s. Living in Germany and traveling through France,Denmark, and Holland. They drink a lot of teas blended with herbs and spices and flowers, as opposed to the British tea, which is Indian Black tea with milk and sugar.

That’s an interesting thing to pick up.

Tea is very much an elixir. You’re grounded with tea. When you live in New York City, you need roots. A lot of people here are from all over the world, and we moved here for our ambition. It’s the hub of very ambitious people.And also in a city where there’s so much indulgence and it’s bad for you, you’re able to indulge in a swanky pot of tea that makes you feel good, and doesn’t give you a hangover the next day. It’s kind of perfect for New Yorkers that are stressed out The East Village is known for its bars, so instead of going to a bar, you can go to a tea room and feel good after your pot or two of tea. My employees laugh. If you have a big pot of Jasmine, you have a healthy buzz. On Friday and Saturday nights I call it a disco. Customers are talking to each other. Everybody’s feeling good. Lavender actually makes you dopy. It’s a healthy and affordable addiction. The health benefits are great. Diabetes is going to be a raging epidemic in the next few years. Drinking tea reduces your risk of adult-onset diabetes, heart disease, etc.

But there are certain teas that do that. You have to know the specific teas, correct?

All tea. Most of the teas that you find are all coming from the same plant. They’re just being oxidized to a different extent, or dried or mixed or spiced in a different way. A real tea is all from the same plant. The secret is to find quality tea. If it’s quality tea, you don’t have to put milk, sugar, or anything in it. The simplicity of tea is you’re drinking a steeped tea leaf. In a chaotic, busy world, there’s something very refreshing about drinking the simplicity of a tea leaf.

Tell me about your involvement with fashion designer Vivienne Tam?

Her people called me a few months ago. She wanted to get into the tea business. She imported a 150-year-old wooden hand-carved tea room from China and transported it in the middle of [her boutique], the Mercer SoHo shop. She is going to open that up as a tea room inside of her ready-to-wear shop. We’ve been working on a few blends for her.

So you’re like a consultant in a way.

Yes. But I will be selling her the various blends and training her employees on how to serve tea.

For people trying to lose weight, which is the best tea?

White tea Oolong. Tea and herbs are better than drinking water all day. Water just provides hydration, where tea provides nutrients. You need the antioxidants to kill the free radicals that destroy skin. Free radicals destroy cells, and essentially your skin.

We’re all exposed to bus exhaust, fumes, and the food we eat, too. Tea has antioxidants that you don’t find in any other plants. We believe in tea, as an elixir, a life force, for the social quirks it ignites, but especially for the families, friends, and communities it unifies.

To learn more about Sympathy for the Kettle, visit their websitewww.sympathyforthekettle.com.

By Kaylene Peoples

Devon Ball of Saigewear – Designing Active Wear for Women of Size

Devon Ball of Saigewear – Designing Active Wear for Women of Size

The clothes I was given to wear throughout my modeling career were not attractive or appealing, and if I ever had the opportunity to make a difference for women of size I would.

—Devon Ball—

Devon Ball is the founder and designer of Saigewear. She founded the company over 3 years ago. Having been a plus-size model herself, she was dissatisfied with the clothes she was provided to shoot in. There was also a limited amount of clothes available for women who wore the plus sizes. Out of that frustration, her clothing line was born.

In an industry that caters to smaller sized women, Devon Ball has pioneered a line of active and leisure wear that is not only flattering but promotes healthy body image and positive attitudes. Ball purports that a lot of full-figured women don’t go to the gym because there is such a minimal selection of workout clothes available, that they just don’t feel comfortable working out in. She herself realized that the only time she felt comfortable during her fitness regimen was while she was wearing men’s sweats. Dispelling the myth that the average woman wears a size 5, Saigewear brings fashion to a starved and neglected population of women who deserve to look and feel good about themselves. I met Devon at the shop in LA that manufactures her t-shirts and was given a glimpse of what this entrepreneur did to get her line out into the world.

All of us who are not a size 00 are grateful to you.

Thank you. I know how frustrating it can be when you’re trying to find something that’s flattering, feel confident in, or have clothes that you just want to go to the gym in. It’s really frustrating when you can’t find appealing workout clothes. Also, on the weekends you want to wear a sweat suit or travel on an airplane, and you can’t find really cute gear.

This is casual wear?

It’s casual, leisure, and fitness. This clothing line can be used for the gym, or just for going shopping or to a concert.

Designers have their own techniques of gauging sizes from different models. How did you determine the sizes for your line?

When I first started Saigewear, I went downtown to different designers, and [I looked for] manufacturers that would distribute really nice fitness wear. Those clothes [I discovered] were not true to size. That led me on a very frustrating path trying to find manufacturers that could cater to that need. That’s what led me to the [realization that I would have to design these clothes myself]. That is what led me to Joanna Le, and I found Judy at Nancy LA because of that very issue. I needed someone that was actually going to give me some clothes that were going to be true to size, because I wanted women of size to be able to fit into these clothes. So, I met with Joanna, gave her my vision, and she came back with exactly what I wanted. We actually sized these sweat suits a size or two up. We used suits that were extra large and made them a 1X or 2X, making that the new large. We added length, too, because a lot of women who are ‘of size’ are taller. So we’re not only catering to larger sizes, but taller sizes, too.

But it’s not just plus size is it?

When I would go to festivals, or I am out selling clothes, or doing fashion shows, I decided to cater to everyone, and now the sizes will range from medium to 4X.

Now what is a medium?

A medium is a 7/8 and we’ll take it to 4X, which is a larger size. If we have to go to 5X, I will, because I want to make sure that I am catering to everyone.

So you have the background of a model and a fit model, too. So you know when things don’t fit.

I am a former Ashley Stewart model. In fact, they were one of the [companies] that gave me my start. [As a plus size model,] I got knocked out of so many jobs because the things that they gave us to model just weren’t flattering. So imagine being in front of a camera and you’ve got on these clothes that are tight in the arms, loose in the stomach and they hang over on the neck. What do you do? You can’t radiate your true inner beauty. You’re not confident and you don’t feel at all that you can portray what they want you to. I got knocked out of a lot of jobs because of that.

The most incredible thing I notice when I am having photo shoots for Saigewear is I don’t care who puts on those clothes, their figures are flattered, they look good, they feel confident, and it’s radiated throughout the pictures. So if you look on the Internet at the magazine pictures that we have [on our website], my models are happy, and they look good.

What are some of the biggest areas you have to focus on when it comes to women’s bodies?

I think the biggest areas are the middle section, the hips, the rear end, the height, and the length. And depending on if they’re top-heavy, it could be their arms are an issue. I am trying to make things that are going to flow with your body.

What are your fabrics?

Right now I’m using cotton, lycra, and there is polyester involved. I don’t know exactly what I am going to pick next, but these materials seem to work very well.

Do your collections come out twice a year?

Well, right now they are coming out twice a year, but as Saigewear grows, I will be adding things in periodically. I am having so much fun, I am starting to see different designs that I can bring into fruition. As I grow, so will Sagewear.

Where can we buy Saigewear?

Right now, it’s primarily Internet. However, I am in the process of meeting with buyers. I’m looking at Sears, Macy’s, Lane Bryant, and Ashley Stewart.

Highest High

By just being a former [plus size] model, my passion has always been there. Before, I was always a size 4 to 6. Once I became plus size, my ‘high’ became greater than me. It’s almost like I have been instructed to create this [line] to help women want to get in shape, feel good about themselves, and to look good while doing it.

You’re going to help a lot of women’s self-esteem.

That’s exactly what I want to do. Saigewear actually started as a day spa. This started back in 2003. Getting $200,000 at that point wasn’t conducive to SBA’s thoughts at the time. They didn’t believe in it; so I kept downsizing, and I pulled out the boutique part, because Saige will eventually be a spa where people enter and regroup, refocus, get the inspiration they need to go out there and be all that they need to be in the world. So this is the very ground level of Saige.

Lowest Low

I was listening to Russell Simmons Do You!, and was just blown away because I think everybody that starts a business venture goes through what he described—I completely ran out of finances. I put tons of money into [my business], and then I had to go through what worked and didn’t work. Had I known what I know now, I’d be so much farther along. But with tenacity and hanging in there, the most incredible things have shown up to get me to the next point. So when I’m at my lowest low, I may get down for a minute, but I am not out!

What advice would you give to other entrepreneurs starting a business?

Really hone in on what it is you’re trying to do and make sure that it’s your passion, because if it’s not your passion, you will not stick with it. This is my passion. And the only reason why I can stick through the fire and the brimstone of it all is because it is my passion. Surround yourself with people that are positive—that are going to help you to continue to see your dream, and people who are going to help you get to the next level. Stay away from a lot of negative energy, because that will only bring you down and help your vision to dissipate. When you’re doing something so great, you need to have very tight arms around you, because it’s not easy. Also, choose something that is going to help other people. I think that if there’s something you’re doing great, you can’t help but get it to other people. Try to surround yourself with people that have the knowledge. People that can understand your vision and can put you in touch with people that can help get you to the next level. Pretty much, just do all your homework, whether it is getting books from the library or finding someone who is already in the profession that you want to get into. School is never too much. They offer classes all the time on ways to help you get the skills you need. Most of all, pray!

Saigewear was featured in LA Focus, Save the Date, and Senior Life. To learn more about Devon Ball and Saigewear, visitwww.saigewear.com.

By Kaylene Peoples

Rachel Pally – Designing for All Shapes and Sizes

Rachel Pally – Designing for All Shapes and Sizes

Oprah’s Favorite Things show, which aired Last November 2007, only reinforced what I already knew about Rachel Pally’s designs. They’re fantastic, figure-flattering, and very universal. Pally’s Swing Turtleneck and Sailor Pants proved to be a big hit on the top-rated talk show. Rachel Pally’s designs have been featured in countless magazines, and have become favorites among celebrities. Pally launched her collection back in 2004 at Los Angeles Fashion Week, and that collection has gained the momentum of a snowball rolling downhill ever since. She has discovered the formula which makes every woman look and feel feminine, no matter what her size.

I remember that first collection. It was my very first time at Fashion Week, and I have to be honest, I expected stick figures in ‘unwearable’ garments to be walking down Rachel Pally’s catwalk. But to my delight, I saw clothes that even I could wear. Her collection was a women’s contemporary line, which utilized draping made from jersey to create sensual and beautiful tops, pants, dresses, and skirts. Ever since that day, I have been a die-hard fan of Rachel Pally’s designs. Imagine my sheer delight when I discovered that she had also come out with a plus-size line. In keeping with this season’s theme, RealWomen-Real Fashion, I thought an interview with the designer herself would be an added bonus to this issue.

I’ve seen your work for quite a few seasons, and of course, I am a woman with curves. So your line really does appeal to me. How do you get inspired?

I get inspired by looking at women and seeing the way women put themselves together. I watch movies and read magazines, but I am definitely inspired by a variety of women.

When did you get started?

I started my business after college. I graduated in 2002 from Berkley, and I made a set of samples, carried them around, and found a new PR firm that was just starting and was able to take me on for next to nothing.

Has your family been very supportive of your designing?

My family has been very supportive. Nobody’s actually involved with the business, but just in having an incredible support system. Everybody’s very proud of me, and everybody tries to play their part for sure.

What caught my eye about your clothes, in particular, is that they are very figure-flattering for women of all figure-types. What made you decide to design for that particular type of body as opposed to…?

The tiny contemporary shopper?

Exactly.

I make sure that in every season I have something for everybody. In fact, I [not too long ago] launched a plus-size line that is exclusive to Nordstrom. So saying that I was able to dress everybody in the contemporary market [isn’t true]. In fact, I was not able to dress everybody. So, I added the second division in order to make sure that I can dress a larger woman as well as 0-12. To me that’s super important. I feel there are a lot of lines out there that don’t cater to everybody and there are plenty of women out there who would love to find great fashions to make them look fantastic.

Have there been any challenges in creating designs for plus size?

No, and for the most part we used designs that were selling in the other departments—in the contemporary departments. Instead of having to design specific clothes for a larger woman, why can’t a larger woman just wear the same clothes, but in her own size? So, we’ve definitely made some changes with the patterns and changed the way things were fitting. But for the most part I don’t feel like there’s any reason why that customer has to have something totally different, as opposed to being able to go to Nordstrom and finding the same piece in the Savvy Departmentas they find in the Encore Department, which I think is definitely the way that I’d like to take that kind of division. That option doesn’t exist for a plus-size woman.

I really think it’s great. Like for instance with the Dove Campaign…

…And Tyra Banks having this whole backlash for those [unflattering] photographs, I think it is. We have to be realistic about what women look like, and how there’s no reason why women can’t find gorgeous clothes to wear that make them look great. There’s no reason a size 12 or size 16 or size 24 woman can’t look fantastic in her clothes. It’s nice to give that option to people. There isn’t another option. It doesn’t really exist in the market.

In creating your designs, was there any one particular body type that you felt was more challenging?

It’s definitely harder to fit the plus-size groups because women carry their weight in such different ways. But no, I work with jersey. It’s stretchy and you kind of make do. And not every piece is going to look good on everybody. But everybody in my office tries every piece on when we go through our sample fittings. We all have very different bodies, so it’s very important that everything looks at least good on everybody. It may not necessarily be the individual pieces we may want to purchase for ourselves, but it’s important to see that it works. Since I work with such a forgiving fabric, which cut the wrong way is not forgiving, but the way that we do it it’s so forgiving that dressing some women over other women is not so [difficult].

So jersey is your main choice of fabric then?

Yes. We’ve done other fabrications, including a cashmere line, accented pieces with satin, we did a fur holiday group, and there will be some changes. We will continue to add new elements, but for the most part it’s just jersey.

How well is the plus line that you launched with Nordstrom doing?

So far we’ve done very well. It’s selling online at Nordstrom.com. We’ve gotten a great amount of feedback. But it’s going to take a little while because it’s a brand new idea for that market. It’s not just another cute line that is available in thecontemporary market. It’s something totally unexpected and different for a woman who is accustomed to having to wear those polyester printed moo moos. So it may take a little while for it to catch on, but so far the feedback has been so glowing.

What are your price points?

The price points are about $150 for tops and about $250 for dresses. And it might be a little higher than that because it’s a little pricier than our regular contemporary line.

Highest High

My highest high was seeing a photograph of Sarah Jessica Parker in the Caftan dress. And seeing a picture of Jessica Simpson in the Gaucho pants—and they took off everywhere. I was just in Thailand, and my pants are still knocked off and hanging up on all those kiosks all over Bangkok. You can still find my Rachel Pally pants everywhere. That’s insane to be able to see that and say to myself, “Nobody around here knows, but I made those pants! I started that!” And now years later, you can find them all over the world. That’s definitely a high.

That’s a huge high!

Lowest Low

(Laughs) My lowest low was getting myself through reports today at Macy’s on the East Coast! It’s business, and there are times when there are lows. But it’s never been anything that you can’t recover from, luckily for me, at this point of my career. I just keep making it happen. I can’t get discouraged and you just keep pushing it through. The lows are very fleeting. The highs are very exciting.

As a successful fashion designer, what advice would you offer to someone who’s up and coming and trying to also achieve the same success?

I always feel like I give the same advice. If you are interested in becoming a designer and having your own business, go to college. No need to start and stop with design school. There are a lot of things you can learn along the way, but you have to have your brain trained to solve problems, act fast, and think quickly. That to me has been my biggest asset. I did go to school and I did work really hard and I trained my brain to be fast. I think that that has really helped me more than a design class. There are amazing designers who came out of design school, but for me and the path that I took, my education was the most important thing.

What was your major in college?

I did city planning, cultural geography, and dance. And I did very random things to have ended up in this industry. But at the same time, thinking is thinking.

Do you think that because of the complex major that you had, this is why you’re able to think outside of the box and dress for all types of women as opposed to your standard?

Having a dance background is the reason that I can dress for all types of women. I understand the body and I understand the way people move and I understand where things should fall and how things should drape—all based on costumes and based on movement. I’m sure some of it has to do with the diversity in my interests over the years. But I look at my collection and I think, “Wow, I was so clearly a dancer.” There are things in my wardrobe that look like things that I had to wear as costumes, and things that I would have loved to have worn, instead of other things. I feel like that’s where the roots are for sure.

What’s next for Rachel Pally?

I am just trying to continue to evolve and keep the line exciting. There’s a lot of competition in the jersey market. It’s nice to continue to offer exciting prints or exciting trims or different types of belts, accessories, and to make sure that we stay a step ahead of our game so that we can keep it fresh and keep our buyers excited. hel Pally, visit her website at www.rachelpally.com, and to purchase items from Rachel Pally’s plus-size line, visit Nordstrom’s stores or Nordstrom online.

By Kaylene Peoples

Lindy Flowers – Turning Modeling into a Longtime Career

Lindy Flowers – Turning Modeling into a Longtime Career

Lindy Flowers is a fashion model who has graced several magazine covers, been featured in countless editorials, is a runway model for Chanel, Donna Karan, Bill Blass, Oscar Del La Renta, Carolina Herrera, and Giorgio Armani, just to name a few. She has done umpteen runway shows for every designer imaginable. She has been steadily working for almost ten years in an industry whose average lifespan is only 3-5 years. And now Lindy is Agenda Magazine‘s spokesmodel.

Hello, Lindy, and welcome to the Agenda Magazine Family. Would you mind sharing with our readers how long you have been modeling?

My first experience in modeling started back in high school when the most popular girl in school, Jessica, was taking a class at one of the local modeling schools, and I decided I wanted to be cool and popular like her. So when she asked me to take the modeling class with her, I decided to do [the six week] class, and it gave me a taste of the modeling world. I never thought that I could continue modeling and that it would be a career for me until one summer after my first year of college. The boss’s son at a company where I worked asked me to shoot with his photographer friend. I just thought he was trying to hit on me. But his friend came through, and we had the photo shoot. I got some free photos out of it, and he took the photos to an agency. . .and it started from there.

What are some of the things you’ve actually done as a model?

Modeling is awesome. It’s been an experience to learn about different cultures, about different people, a variety of different things. I have had the opportunity to travel overseas to places like South Africa, Thailand, Korea, Japan, Taiwan, as well as the European markets, too: Paris, Vienna, Spain. These are opportunities I never would have gotten in my everyday life.

Aside from being well-traveled, you’re quite the package.

I like to think so (she laughs). At least I sell that to the agents and the clients in the industry.

What’s your favorite kind of modeling?

I like the variety that modeling has to offer, but I’d have to say ultimately that print work is fun. It’s creating a finished product that I like to see.

Are there any perks to modeling? Have any designers ever given you one of their designs?

Yes, in fact that is one of the perks of modeling. I had met Donna Karan. I had done her fashion show in Beverly Hills, and after the show, four of the models [I was one of the four] stayed behind for the press. We shot pictures standing next to Donna Karan in her creations while the press was shooting her. At the end of it, she gave us the boots that we wore in the show. I had never seen models change so fast. . .and we have to change fast in the shows. . .but we changed so fast so that she wouldn’t change her mind. She gave us those beautiful boots that I still have to this day and will cherish because it’s one of my favorite things I have ever gotten.

Let’s talk about the print work. What are some of the magazines you shot for?

Pregnancy Magazine was my most recent magazine. I was pregnant with my second child, and that was really fun, just to know that I could continue modeling while I was pregnant, and to do something as wonderful as a pregnancy magazine cover. Other magazines range from Cosmo to local magazines. I shot South African magazines. Each country has a different set of magazines like the Vogues and the Bizarres. I have yet to do aVogue. If anybody out there from Vogue would like to shoot me, hey, I’m all yours.

Is there anything particularly difficult about modeling, or does it all come naturally to you

At a time when most people would quit, I was told my nose is too big, or I’m too skinny, or too fat, etc. The negative aspect is the most difficult part. And the emotional part—to be able to take the criticism. The part of being able to be who you are when most people are telling you that you’re this way or you’re that way. And that’s probably the most difficult part of it.

You have a baby, and you don’t look like you’ve had a baby at all. What is your secret to staying in shape? You look amazing!

Thank you. I have been very blessed genetically, because with this being my second baby, I was not quite as lucky. So the first time in my life I learned how to use a treadmill. It’s a funny story. As I was standing there trying to use the treadmill, pushing the buttons [with no results], I was hollering to the guy, my treadmill’s broken. Well, it just started up. I didn’t realize there was a countdown. So I’m still learning how to work out and stay in shape. I did play sports growing up, but hadn’t done such a structured routine. I do yoga and a lot of walking, especially with the kids, just to get out and help clear my head. It keeps me in shape.

Do you eat healthy food or do you just eat what you want?

Again, after having the baby. . .and I have met a lot of friends that have small children and are really into healthy food. . .and I’ve always been a fast food junkie, I’m finding that I’m not so much a fast food junkie anymore, and I think that that helps with my complexion, my overall feeling. It’s nice to have a strong core immune system and healthy food balance. So I have definitely stepped up. That’s not to say that I’m not going to swing through drive-through every now and then, but I definitely eat a lot healthier; and I am more conscious of it.

Well, you do have beautiful skin. Let’s talk about some of your runway work.

The show that I was the most excited to book was the Guess show. They had their big anniversary show and they brought all the designers in from Italy. My entire agency had gone on the casting, and two of us got called back, and I ended up booking the show. They used girls from all over the world. The sexiness combined with fashion. . .it was a spectacular night. It was a spectacular show. I was really sick that night. My dream. . .I landed this show. I was so excited. And before I landed on the runway, I was as sick as can be, but I ended up seeing the video from the show and it ended up turning out really nice. That was probably my most exciting runway show that I have done.

How has having children impacted your modeling career?

As a mom with two children, [and they are also becoming involved in the industry as well], I actually get more excited when they book a job than when I book a job. I’m not the stage mom, but I get so excited for them. Even if it’s just a shot in Parents Magazine, I’m bragging about that. It’s so fun to watch them cruise through the industry, too. And to be able to know what I know and be able to shield them from things.

Highest High

My highest high was being treated so well on a job that I did forWomen’s Value Magazine. It’s a South African magazine. I was here in Los Angeles, and they really wanted me for the shoot. They paid to have me come out. So I flew out there [to South Africa] and we stayed in the best of the best resorts. I felt like a super model. The photos were beautiful, and I made the cover of that magazine as well. That was such a high for me to see that cover, to be treated so well, and to feel so special.

Lowest Low

My lowest low was after spending a month in Aspen Greece, pounding the pavement and going on audition after audition and not booking a single job and thinking, “What am I doing?” I had no money. I was the only model sitting in my apartment while everyone else was out on their bookings, and at this point the agency wasn’t giving me any castings because I wasn’t getting response. I thought, “Why did I think I could do this?” That was the lowest point. I overcame that of course by going home and regrouping and being amongst friends and family, and people that loved me and pushing through and trying again. It was a very humbling experience, because until that point, I had been working every market–they loved me, I had jobs, and it was extremely humbling. . .and I really needed that.

So what’s next for Lindy Flowers?

Well, Agendamag (she laughs). I’m really kind of moving forward and really enjoying the hosting, speaking out and talking with people, and sharing experiences. So I think I’m moving in that direction. I’ll continue to do the modeling. I love it. It’s my heart’s desire. I love each new booking that I get, and each new client that I meet.

By Kaylene Peoples

The Many Facets of Coco Johnsen – Her Next Stop, Designing!

The Many Facets of Coco Johnsen – Her Next Stop, Designing!

Coco Johnsen has graced the pages of countless magazines as a model, including Essence, Glamour, and Vibe. As an actress and former Lee Strasburg student, she was featured in the television shows The Parkersand Judging Amy, just to name a few. There has been some controversy surrounding the former model/actress regarding her affiliation with Playboy, but she has dispelled any untruths in her blog. After all, hobnobbing with celebrities like Anna Nicole Smith and Coolio, as well as constantly being sought after by paparazzi, do tend to make people exaggerate. Oh yeah, and she’s also writing a book. But I digress. The reason for this article has nothing to do with gossip columns or what someone may or may not have engaged in years past. My sole purpose of writing this article is to celebrate a person who has overcome adversity and has always landed on her feet. If I didn’t know better, I’d think Coco Johnsen has nine lives.

How do you explain being raised in an orphanage, spending her formative years in foster care, and dealing with the harsh realities of the deep South filled with provincial attitudes and racial intolerance? In most cases, you can’t. But Coco Johnsen has proven repeatedly that she is the exception to the rules.

I interviewed a stylist a couple of years ago named Ty-Ron Mayes, who turned me on to a new designer named Coco Johnsen, who was launching her collection at LA Fashion week back in October 2007. Her spring 2008 collection was a big hit—again, no big surprise there. Everything this woman does is stellar. She not only has a successful clothing line, but she also designs shoes, and has an accessory line that includes high end sunglasses, belts, etc. Even her ad campaigns look like they have multi-million dollar budgets. So who is this mysterious chameleon? And what does she have to offer the fashion industry? A lot.

How did you get started as a fashion designer?

I decided that I wanted to go back to school. I had been a flight attendant for Delta Airlines for 13 years. I realized I was getting older. I was traveling a lot. So I got to see a lot of the world. I was moonlighting with my modeling career for 20 years. So I just wanted a little bit more, and I always was interested in design. I attended the Fashion Institute of Design, and it opened up a whole new world. I found an investor that was interested in helping, and it evolved from there. And here I am today.

Did being a model influence your decision to become a fashion designer?

Oh, definitely! Just traveling around the world and being in London and Paris, and especially for me, Milan, had a great influence on me when I was there. I didn’t have a very good modeling career there. I was too short. I remember going to a couple of the big agencies and being told, “Unfortunately, black models don’t work here.” And I told them I had friends in New York that were models and they did quite well. They responded, “Yeah, because they’re 5’11. We use them for shows.” So I was a little discouraged. I remember gettingback on the plane and going back to New York really disappointed that they weren’t able to see that I could do lingerie or swimwear. And at that time in New York, there weren’t that many markets as there are now for swimwear models. There were lots of markets for hair products that were in the black market, or a limited amount of swimsuits. It was mostly work for video. So I just took what I had seen as far as gowns, and the beautiful dresses that I saw when I was there in the shops. I just used that and kept that in my mind to influence me for the future. I just kept traveling around and doing what I could do to see myself in the future past modeling. And that’s what led me to where I am now.

Tell me about whom you design for.

The Coco Johnsen woman is very feminine. She is an individual, yet she can go with the trend. . .but yet powerful. It’s really for a forward thinking type of woman who’s thinking, “I have this blouse now, and I want to be able to wear this next season.” What jacket can I make that’s going to accentuate what she has?

What are some of your fabrics that you use?

We use silk, silk dupiani, the finest cottons, and jersey. And in our fall collection we have wool. So we’re really thinking about giving you something that you can retain for a long time. And it’s a work of art. My last collection was very focused on the French renaissance period. A lot of our tops (tops with high collars), I made them so that if you had a jacket, it would accentuate what you were going to wear. Even if you were in the office during the day, you could take your jacket off at night to go meet up with someone at a cocktail party. So these are the kinds of things that I’m thinking about. I believe a lot of that influence comes from me living in New York City, and packing a lot of stuff with me, when I’m walking around the city and being able to pull my jacket out if I need to. Or put it on or take it off for an event.

Is Coco Johnsen couture?

Oh yes, definitely couture. Our tops range from $150 for our ready to wear. Our gowns range anywhere from $500 to $2,000 to $5,000. We have a dress that’s $12,000. And our clothes are manufactured in Brazil. The workmanship and artisans there need to be recognized. That’s the difference between a garment that you could buy at Macy’s, compared to something you can buy at Coco Johnsen’s. Not many people will be walking around in that garment. You know when you come to us, you’re going to have a top or pant that not many people will be able to have. That’s one of the reasons that we’re in that niche of luxury line. coco johnsen spring 2008 garments

How did you decide to become a couturier?

I always loved the couture pieces. Some of my favorite designers are Vivienne Westwood., Jean Paul Gaultier, and Chanel. When you’re living in New York City, you aspire to wear those clothes. Especially for me, having grown up in the South, it was my dream to be able to wear one of those tops or dresses. I thought, “Wouldn’t it be neat to be able to design in that way? Use the same types of fabrics and be able to [enable just about] anyone to purchase that, and not be so far above what you can afford?” That’s why we’re sort of falling in between the other designers in our price points. We’re trying to wholesale a little bit under what you might find from Chanel, Monique L’Huillier, or Kevan Hall. And those designers do inspire me.

What’s a typical day for Coco Johnsen?

I’m working on both lines now. coco johnsen shoes We started out with our couture collection Coco Johnsen, and then we added the ready to wear line Coco Johnsen Ready toWear. And then we added sandals with Swarovsky crystals. Every day could be a different project. Because of the time restraints with Brazil, it could take up to 6 to 10 weeks to get a garment back to us. So we are looking every day for new ways to make our products better, and to keep our price points as low as we can, but still make a profit.

Do you do your own pattern making and sketching, or do you have someone that does it for you?

A little bit of both. Later on today, I’ll have a sketch artist come in and I will dictate what I’d like to see. Maybe change the sleeve or make the skirt length this season below the knee. Maybe sit with her for a couple of hours and flesh out what we want to have on the page, and she’ll go back and work on that on her computer. Then, she’ll come back to me. It can go through 2 or 3 revisions. I also sketch as well, but because I am the CEO of this company, I have so many responsibilities. I can’t sketch out every line as I would like to. And I don’t do patterns. (Laughs) Some people don’t do windows. I don’t do patterns! I can tell you exactly what I want to see or what kind of cuts I would like. The lines are very clean. For my last collection they were a little broader. And for every season I’m thinking about what I’d like to see. As a woman, I do take my own taste into consideration. I am not going to produce something or put something out that’s not going to flatter a woman’s physique. And I do take different sizes into consideration. Not only am I designing for a size 0 to a 2 to a 4 to a 6 and 8, but in seasons to come, we will be looking to design for our full-figured ladies size 12, 14, 16, and 18. We don’t want to leave them out.

Highest High

Our first fashion week at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week last season for our spring collection. I was exhausted, but it was a definite high to see what we had designed go down the runway. And the applause for the clothes—they really appreciate that we did something you could wear every day. Sometimes, myself included, I will only design stuff for editorial use. And sometimes it can be confusing to the consumer, if they’re looking us up to see what our collection was for that season. They think, “I can’t’ wear that.” I really wanted our first collection to reflect that we are thinking about what you’re going to wear every day, a special occasion. We did a 64-piece collection. Something in there should be right for you. No matter what size you wear. You’d be able to find something in the collection that would accentuate your wardrobe.

Coco Johnsen Ready to Wear - Soring 08 Collection

That’s a big showing for a first-time showing, too. That was very ambitious.

It’s always scary a little bit, because you don’t have anyone to really bounce that idea off of. The collections move so fast. I don’t think the public realizes that once a designer puts a collection out, they only have 3 months before they have to show their next collection. And that’s a lot of work. Some new designers will show a big collection like we did with 64 pieces and then they’ll skip the next season and then show you a next spring or fall. We’re actually putting out another fall. We’re limiting the collection in order to do it right, and to get the pieces forward that we believe are the strongest pieces for that collection. But it is a challenge every season. So I would say my lowest low would be realizing that we’re not able to do all of the things and produce all of the pieces that we initially designed. We may design 120 pieces, but the public may only see 64 of those pieces. And sometimes that’s a bit of a letdown. As designers, we have this vision of what we want to see and the pieces all interconnect. But there may be pieces missing from the collection that are either too expensive to reproduce, or because of the lack of availability, it becomes one-of-a-kind.

Did you experience any obstacles when trying to start your business?

How much time do you have! There are so many obstacles to overcome that I decided to write a book about it. My book is calledFrivolous and it’s about the industry coming from a model’s point of view. All these things that were happening to me like ordering fabric from a factory and you find out after you’ve made the garment, the factory is out of business, or the fabric’s not available. So you just learn as you’re moving and progressing into this business that there are certain obstacles that you cannot avoid. Because the fashion business is a frivolous business, finding funding is a challenge. Let’s say you put into a shop a garment that’s taken you 3 months to make, it’s a trendy garment. It’s gone. Next season it’s out. That fabric might not be in any more. So I try to design around that and not to make my pieces go out. You learn through designing and a lot of obstacles like spending a lot of money for fabric and then discovering that you can’t use it. These are things that you can only learn from being in the business. And the books that I’ve read [on the subject] don’t really touch on that. Or say for example, the back end part of it of having co-designers that you work with. Sometimes it doesn’t work out. Sometimes they want to have their name above yours even though they’re not funding the company. So these are the types of things that happen when you start a small business like I have. And then I would like people to understand and to know before they get into this business that when you’re designing it’s not just about the designs. It’s about the business side of being in the business. If you’re going to be a designer, you have to learn accounting, payroll, taxation, incorporation. I want to put it into a language that everyday people will understand.

That leads to my next question. What advice would you give to an upcoming designer?

Learn all different variables of design, not just the pretty pictures—not just wanting to be in the magazine. It would be good to find a way to your dream and it may not always be the most conventional way. It may not always be the most popular way. And don’t let people discourage you from it, like I did as a model. I’m really only 5’7, but I said I was 5’8 on my comp card. Whatever your dream is, you have to find a way to make that happen for you. You have to love what you’re doing. I would encourage especially women that want to be in this business, to understand the business-side before you jump in.

Where do you see Coco Johnsen 5 years from now?

I see the label growing and hopefully being something that I can be proud of. Eventually being all over the world and being known for the quality that we produce. I don’t mind if we don’t produce or sell as much volume as you might find in a Macy’s or Bloomindale’s. As long as the quality is there and the fit is true to what I am designing for, I’ll be happy with that.

Any last words?

Again, back to starting your business, I’d like to say enjoy your life and appreciate every day, and appreciate your clothes.

To learn more about Coco Johnsen’s designs, visitwww.cocojohnsenboutique.com.

By Kaylene Peoples