DECK THE HALLS WITH BEADS & HOLLY – in NEW ORLEANS!
By Marilyn Anderson & Dennis Lanning
New Orleans for the Christmas holidays! Why – you ask? Isn’t it still under water? Isn’t everything closed? Isn’t it empty? The answer is no, no and NO. Instead, think go, go, and GO!
We went there recently – and WOW – it was the most fun we’ve had in an alligator’s age! And when we hit Bourbon Street on Saturday night – it almost seemed like Mardi Gras – I can just imagine what the real Mardi Gras is like.
We were amazed at the crowds and excitement – and whole-heartedly joined in with wild abandon. At 9 PM a parade started down Bourbon Street with marching bands, clowns on stilts, folks in costumes and lots of smiling faces. Boosted by the NAR (National Association of Realtors) conventioneers in tow, thousands of revelers crowded through the French Quarter, dancing along with the parade and tossing beads this way and that – as people on the balconies above the street tossed even more beads downward.
Music blared from almost every doorway, attracting customers with shouts of “No Cover – No Minimum” as the festivities continued late into the night. We made sure to sample the music and drinks at a variety of spots. If you like Blues, Rock, or Soul—Bourbon Street is the place to be!
Food in New Orleans is fantastic. We love the Louisiana diet: eat, eat and eat! There are lots of fried foods, of course—it’s a staple of southern cooking. But there is also plenty of fresh fish, vegetables and Cajun specialties that we find irresistible. Our resolution for the New Year – if you go to New Orleans, don’t start your diet until AFTER January 1st .
So here’s the holiday scoop for NOLA, as it now touts itself, standing for, obviously, New Orleans, LA. Most hotels are open. Most Bed & Breakfasts are open. Most restaurants are open. Clubs are open. Stores and attractions are open. The people are friendlier than ever. You’ll love them… and they’ll love you for coming and helping with the tourist revival of New Orleans.
One note of a serious nature to visitors: Despite the joy of revitalization, the hurricane-damaged areas still cover a vast area. There is some effort being made at renewal, but overall the situation is sad. It is highly recommended that you tour these areas for an awakening and remembrance, and to pay your respects to the lost souls who have moved on to another place. The tourist trade will help New Orleans and the people in it, so tell everyone you know to visit soon and often!
New Orleans is a wonderfully exciting and vibrant city, where everyone can let their hair down and lift their spirits up. So many things to do, places to go, and meals to eat!
So, don’t miss any of it – get your Santa to take you here for Christmas… and stay for an unforgettable New Year’s Eve. Or make any day New Year’s Eve with a trip to this playfully decadent, spiritual, and alive city!
Here are some of the great things you can enjoy in New Orleans:
The Grand Victorian Bed and Breakfast
Located on St. Charles Street in the Garden district, a fun trolley ride slightly west of downtown, The Grand Victorian was designed and built in 1893 by New Orleans architect Thomas Sully. Several years ago it was lovingly restored by Bonnie Rabe, our gracious innkeeper.
This Victorian jewel features beautifully restored interior details, period furniture and an indefinable “warm and fuzzy” feeling, making your stay that much nicer. Amenities include free wi-fi for laptoppers, a house computer for checking your email if you left your laptop home, and an ample continental breakfast.
Our stay in the Nottoway Suite was reminiscent of apartment living in another era. Except we had such hi-tech niceties as a completely separate a/c system and a huge hot tub in the bathroom, features not normally found in your typical Victorian B & B. We were made to feel as comfortable as being at home. There are 8 rooms and suites, all named after the grand plantations that lined the Mississippi River, some of which still operate as tourist locations.
We can wholeheartedly recommend The Grand Victorian to anyone seeking lovely, comfortable, and reasonably priced accommodations. It would be a cozy and intimate setting for your Christmas Eve through New Year’s Day.
However, if B & B-ing isn’t for you, the city has thousands of rooms available at hotels in the French Quarter and downtown.
The Grand Victorian Bed and Breakfast
2727 St. Charles Ave.
New Orleans, LA 70130
800-977-0008
www.gvbb.com
The Court of Two Sisters
Justifiably renowned for their daily Jazz Brunch Buffet, this beautiful and friendly restaurant offers a sumptuous spread containing almost every edible concoction man can prepare. In the morning, the buffet features made-to-order omelets, Eggs Benedict, sausage and bacon, grits and grillades, and shrimp and veggie pastas with a creamy Alfredo sauce. The afternoon’s sampling includes Creole jambalaya, turtle soup, oysters Bienville, Duck a l’Orange, and Shrimp Etouffee. There’s also a cornucopia of delectable cold salads and appetizers.
The desserts were in equal abundance: pastries, fruit, cookies, ice cream, you name it. We had to force ourselves to “suffer” through the Oreo Cookie cake and several brownies. And we couldn’t leave without a taste of their unique “King Cake,” a colorfully iced coffee-cake ring symbolizing the Mardi Gras tradition.
But what makes this world-famous restaurant truly special are the romantic outdoor courtyard, attentive service, and musical trio that plays softly elegant New Orleans jazz while you dine. We think you’ll agree… it’s a glorious place for a holiday feast!
The Court of Two Sisters
613 Royal Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
(504) 522-7261
www.courtoftwosisters.com
Acme Oyster House
We have never passed by this historic oyster bar when there wasn’t a line outside. No matter, it moves fast and with other people chatting all around you, you’re seated in what seems like a flash. Don’t like lines? Walk right in and sit at the bar.
We like the small bar section in front of the “shuckers” – a friendly bunch of fun-loving guys who shuck and “plate” the oysters you are about to eat – and provide entertainment at the same time with a constant rap of amusing banter.
Mostly raw or fried favorites populate the Acme menu, but all is first rate. After a dozen raw, we opted for a dozen char-broiled. What a treat this dish is! Somehow they all “slide” down easily and taste delectable. Dennis likes the raw ones and washes them down with Abita Amber, a Louisiana specialty beer – but I prefer them cooked. Hmmm – this Christmas, instead of chestnuts roasting on an open fire… how about oysters!
Joey K’s
Heading up Magazine Street in the Garden District one night, we passed what looked like your typical neighborhood tavern. Except, this place was packed. Every table was full of happy faces downing beer from chilled, thick glass mugs and eating voraciously. With a recommendation from a friend, we figured how we could go wrong?
The menu is standard diner fare but sprinkled with some specialties like Trout Tchoupitoulas. There are Daily Blackboard specials like brisket, lamb shank, white beans with pork chops, or jambalaya. We sampled the pork loin special with green vegetables and the pan-fried trout topped with grilled veggies and shrimp.
Don’t expect gourmet fare here, but for a satisfying meal in a very pleasant atmosphere, Joey K’s is AOK!
Joey K’s Restaurant
3001 Magazine Street
New Orleans
(504) 891-0997
Table One
While just across the street from Joey K’s, this restaurant is miles away in style, ambiance, and menu. Part of a family of locally owned restaurants, Table One is an ambitious attempt at gourmet greatness on the local level. It’s a beautifully designed space with both upstairs and downstairs dining and a long attractive bar area on the first floor.
The menu is limited, but Chef Gerard Maras has filled it with a variety of fresh tastes for almost anyone. Unfortunately, the night we were there, they were out of several dishes, not specials, but standard menu items, which surprised us.
Almost filled up from non-stop eating for the past several days, we decided to share a few dishes between us. First, we tried the Fresh Sea Scallops, with frisee, Belgian endive and Italian parsley, dressed with lemon verbena caper sauce. We had asked what “fried New England Style” meant, and our server assured us it meant they were sautéed in a pan, not deep fried. Unfortunately, they came deep fried and were rather tasteless.
The salad of Bibb lettuce with roasted beets, fresh “fine herbs” and naval oranges, dressed with orange blossom vinaigrette was well presented and tasty, but not overly special.
Our entrée of duck with plum sauce and boiled apples was also well presented, with a nice-sized portion. Our first few pieces of duck were excellent, tender, and perfectly done. But the remaining slices were tough and neither juicy nor tasty. We tried to imagine how some of the duck was so succulent and the rest… NOT. Maybe it was on the run… hoping to escape being someone’s Christmas dinner-to-come.
The choice of wines by the glass were limited but well chosen. Although it didn’t end up being our favorite place, this restaurant deserves another try.
Table One
2800 Magazine Street (Cross Street: Washington Avenue)
New Orleans, LA 70115View Map
(504) 872-9035
Pizza on Magazine Street: Rocky’s and Reginelli’s
There are several Italian eateries as you roam along Magazine Street, and we visited two of them.
Rocky’s interior is mostly dark wood, with private booths and a variety of things hanging on the walls. There is an open kitchen and you can watch them create your own pizza.
They have an extensive selection of “gourmet” pizzas and we ordered a Cajun Pizza with loads of seafood sitting on top. Other originals include the Muffaletta pizza and the wild Tchoupitoulas with pepperoni, Italian sausage, red peppers and jalapenos. The menu also includes focaccia sandwiches, salads and pastas.
We thoroughly enjoyed the comfort, quality and care that the young college-type pizza pros served us. We left with smiles and full stomachs, and highly recommend this local stop.
While Rocky’s is more of your old-fashioned pizza parlor, just up the street is a new, more stylish retro-deco eatery called Reginelli’s Pizzeria.
With bright pastel colors and oddly shaped tables, this is the newer, hipper version of Pizza “Parlorology.” Cool and comfortable, we ordered salads, pizzas and drinks and were more than pleasantly surprised with our meal. Our great surprise came when Dennis asked for a glass of Abita amber and got a full pitcher for $2!
Neighborhoods need little places like this, where the tables are full of young people enjoying life and getting the best in foods. As satisfying as our meal was, our server made it even better.
Waitress Stephanie was as fresh as a daisy and sweet as the tiramisu. She loved helping us and accompanied every trip to our booth with a smile and desire to be helpful. Recently graduated from Indiana University, she had planned to move to Los Angeles, but came to NOLA instead by accident. I think her mistake was fortuitous. She loves New Orleans and makes her customers feel extra welcome.
| Rocky’s Gourmet Pizza |
Reginelli’s Pizzeria |
| 3222 Magazine Street |
741 State Street at Magazine Street |
| New Orleans, LA 70115 |
New Orleans, LA 70118 |
| 504.891.5152 |
504.899.1414 |
Café du Monde
High on your list of not-to-miss NOLA landmarks should be this historic spot in the French Quarter. Open 24/7 and bustling every one of those hours, this is the ultimate fried dough (called Beignets here, not donuts) and java house in the city. Since 1862, Café du Monde has been pleasing locals and tourists alike with its Beignets (fried, rectangle-shaped doughnuts covered in powdered sugar) and cafe au laits. Also available are fresh-squeezed orange juice, regular and chocolate milk, hot chocolate and soft drinks. Sit on the patio or indoors and watch the world go by. You’ll love the laid back atmosphere and white-jacketed servers working their way around the crowded tables – no matter how late at night or early in the morning it is. A great stop for some more sweets and coffee after all that New Year’s Eve partying!
Cafe du Monde
800 Decatur Street at St. Ann Street
New Orleans, LA 70116-3306
(504) 581-2914
The Funky Pirate
Blues, blues and BLUES! We love the blues – and try to find the best clubs in every city we visit. We actually discovered The Funky Pirate on a pre-Katrina trip several years ago. So we were absolutely thrilled to find it was still here – along with their main blues-belting guy – Big Al Carson.
From the outside, this club doesn’t look much different than all the other dark, smoky, music joints on Bourbon Street. It’s when you step inside and capture the image of Big Al sitting ruefully on a huge chair, filling every inch of the room with a haunting blues sound, that you know you have found heaven.
He is the essence of the blues musician, digging deep into his 550 pounds of soul, and mesmerizing everyone within hearing range. You can dance or just listen – but don’t miss this place when you come to New Orleans.
Funky Pirate
727 Bourbon Street
New Orleans, LA 70116View Map
(504) 523-1960
Editorial Description
Pat O’Brien’s
This bar experience is all about fun. Any one of the taverns in the FrenchQuarter can pour a pint, but Pat O’Brien’s pours more, much more. We spent our time at the Piano Bar, directly across from the people-packed Main Bar, where talented singers belt out tunes like home runs in a fun and pleasing way. It’s a party as everyone participates in the mayhem, and you forget about going anywhere else. It’s no wonder that the line for this venue often goes around the block, but the wait is worth it. A highlight of the Patio is the flaming fountain, a unique water fountain with fire emerging from its center. Don’t forget to take a picture; your sweetie will love the romantic gesture. Or, like we did, ask a waiter to snap a photo of the two of you enjoying a holiday hug.
Pat O’Brien’s Bar
718 St. Peter Street
New Orleans, LA 70116
504.525.4823
www.patobriens.com
Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro
We didn’t get to Snug Harbor, but friends of ours went there to seeCharmaine Neville, cousin of Aaron Neville, perform. She’s among the many New Orleans talents who regularly grace the stage, including Ellis Marsalis, Astral Project, and Jesse McBride.
It has a reputation as the city’s most prestigious jazz club, and includes three sectons: a cozy restaurant with candlelit tables; a bar area; and a performance club with seating on two levels. Apparently, a lot of young jazz musicians frequent the place – and bring their instruments, ready to jump up on the stage at a moment’s notice. Next time we visit, we’ll be sure to check it out. How about making a date to meet us there!
Snug Harbor
626 Frenchmen StreetNew Orleans, LA 70116
504.949.0696
info@snugjazz.com
Celebration Tours
This company offers a variety of city tours in a 12-passenger van. We took the Katrina Recovery Tour, and learned a lot from our driver and guide, Ozzie Laporte. He knows and loves his city, and you can sense the concern in his voice as the tour winds its way through the French Quarter and away from the now-lively downtown, to the outer sections known to millions of TV viewers as the Lower 9th Ward and 17th Street Canal.
Here, the devastation of 16 months ago is a daily reminder of the worst natural disaster to ever hit the United States. We were stunned by the scope of damage and destruction levied on these areas. Approximately 200,000 evacuees of the storm have not returned to the city; and seeing these areas, you will understand why. From here, we were taken back to see the other active sections of the city. Ozzie’s colorful narrative told all about the history of each site we passed, and helped us understand and enjoy the background and beauty of New Orleans.
We recommend this tour to see the progress New Orleans has made in just one year. It’s a tale of two cities. You see the devastated areas, then go to the uptown area and the Garden District, ultimately ending with a positive look at one of the most unique cities in the world – New Orleans!
Celebration Tours
1229 St. Thomas Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
Toll-Free: (888) 587-7115
Phone: (504) 587-7115
www.celebrationtoursllc.com
Other attractions in or near NOLA:
Audubon Aquarium of the Americas
Audubon Zoo
Beuregard-Keys House
Blain Kern’s Mardi Gras World
Cajun Pride Tours
Destrehan Plantation
Hermann-Grima House
House of Blues
Laura: A Creole Plantation
Louisiana Children’s Museum
Louisiana State Museum-New Orleans
The Ogden Museum of Southern Art
Save Our Cemeteries
Van Benthuysen-Elms Mansion
…. And many, many more!
The smash Broadway hit “Jersey Boys” is having its West Coast Premiere beginning December 1st at the Curran Theatre in San Francisco. “Jersey Boys” is the story of Frankie Valli and The Four Seasons and how this group of blue-collar boys from the wrong side of the tracks became one of the biggest American pop music sensations of all time.
